Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Entry 3, 10/10: Prague vs. The World, or for now just Vienna (and a little Munich)

A few weekends ago, my friends and I bussed south of the border to Austria to visit the lovely city of Vienna. After dropping our stuff off at the hostel Ruthenstienner (that may be incorrectly spelled but for me it's okay), very quaint little place, and headed out on the town. The first restaurant was a microbrewery with delicious food of ginormous portions. The beer we had there tasted even better than most Czech beers, not all, but some of the crappier ones. We then decided to do what we do best, pick up some beers at a mini-mart and roam the streets aimlessly. Especially the first night of sight-seeing trips, I think the best way to start off is by wandering. We saw all kinds of cool things, Mozart himself (he stood really still and didn't talk to anyone, which I thought was a little rude of him), we saw the National Library, I think, the National Opera, all sorts of cool sights. Vienna has a very distinct appearance at night, something very different from most parts of Prague. Vienna is incredibly well lit, every statue and every building. Last night (in Prague), I was walking in the Old Town Square and the giant statue of Jan Hus, a very revered public figure known for his leadership in the Protestant revolt in the 1400s, was almost completely dark with only a few small lights shining up on him. The millions of restaurants that lined the perimeter of the square are illuminated so one could still see the statue but if it were in Vienna, it would have a much bigger literal spotlight. I think the best way to gauge this is to compare the smaller backstreets in the non-touristy areas. Even the road to our hostel in Vienna, not off a main road really, not much traffic, street lights were prominent and shining. The road to my dorm here in Prague is no Time Square (don't worry Ma, there are a few lights and it's perfectly safe).

For our only full day in Vienna, we were on a mission to see almost everything. We started by spending a few hours at an open market. This market had everything, food stands, clothes stands, antique stands, people selling X-Box games, the whole nine. The only thing that I didn't find a nice selection of was shot glasses. For those who don't know, I have a shot glass collection in my room back home of over 150 shot glasses that I've collected with the help of friends and family over the past 10-12 years probably, so I look for them everywhere I go. It was a really cool experience to have, very European, I think, because of the amount of bargaining. One of my professors started a class by explaining the importance of bargaining. To bargain is to give value to the desired item, and to accept the given price means that you do not really care for the item and is a sign of disrespect. I think that is a very interesting idea in terms of interpersonal relationships. It seems as though he/she selling the item values the relationship to the customer more than the money made from the transaction. The professor told us that of course that type of transaction wouldn't fly in the US because our religion is money. I don't completely disagree with him, and he didn't mean his comment as malicious, but more to make a point about interpersonal relationships in a market setting.

Anywho, the rest of my trip was very much like what anyone would experience being in Vienna for a day and a half. We saw the Hapsburg Palace, Museums' Quartier, the giant and glorious buildings right next to the Hapsburg Palace that had a great lawn for napping, took a look around the MUMOK, etc, suuuuper classy of us. I want to close this entry with a few observations about the cities to which I have traveled. Well, I guess I can't really compare Munich to anything because my vision was slightly impaired most of the time, plus I didn't see any of the city besides the Oktoberfest grounds and the inside of one restaurant where the waitress, in her 50s and unattractive, had her belly hanging out for the world to see (against its will) and snorted with each step she took. The one thing I did notice about Munich and Vienna is how much of wider cities they are in comparison to Prague. Besides maybe one or two main streets in Prague, every street is one lane, which sometimes includes tracks for the trams. There just seems to be a lot more space in the center of the other cities. It makes sense as Prague is the smallest city out of these three, I guess. Don't get me wrong, it's not something that I dislike about Prague; in fact, I like taking trams out of the crowded city center. Maybe Prague feels smaller because I know it better than the other cities, who knows?

In Vienna, there is also more space to relax in the city center than there is in Prague. In Museums' Quartier, I remember laying on these plastic benches/couches that were shaped like this: \_/. We spent around an hour just lounging outside of MUMOK in these because of how relaxing it was to lay on these and watch people walk by, plus they were all different fun colors. There were plenty of people asleep in these thingies all over the place. Then, just a walk across the street away is a huge lawn in between the Austrian Museum of Natural History and some other giant museum. These museums are also a spitting image of each other, it's kinda neat. Most of the architecture is Baroque but the influence of the Renaissance style is seen all over. My conclusion is that the city is much more recreational and less functional, with a greater focus on leisure than work. Prague, on the other hand, can't be pinned down that easily, I don't think. This city is all over the place in terms of its architecture since no one ever tore anything down. Architects just built in the style of the time which is why you see Gothic next to Romanesque next to Baroque and so on. It makes the city interesting because you can see a plethora of styles on just one street. Here's to Prague being all whacked out architecturally, it's awesome. Also, here's to Vienna and Munich for also being cool, just not as cool.
I'm going to go get a pivo. Thanks for reading.
All the best,
Than

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Entry 2, 2/10/2011: Oktoberfest, Munich

To all of my amigos who are wondering about sandwich girl, I'll address that first. I haven't been back to that place since my last entry (which is probably the longest stretch I've gone without stopping in there) so still no name to report. I apologize for the delay, I'll get there at some point this week. Anywho, today's entry will be more playing catch-up on weeks past, two weekends ago to be precise.

Right now, we will board an 6-ish hour bus ride to Munich, Germany. The bus ride there was great, I saw some of the Czech countryside... which is pretty much the same as almost any countryside on the drive from NJ to Chicago... and got some good reading done. Before I left I picked up a copy of The Unbearable Lightness of Being by Milan Kundera. It's quite a nice read, actually. Told from five different perspectives, the four protagonists' and the author's, Kundera brings his audience into the Czech mindset in the times surrounding the Soviet occupation of Prague in 1968. The plot is really interesting because we have history happening right around the characters but the novel deals with the characters, not with history; it's a novel primarily focusing on character development so it makes for an intriguing read.

Enough about the book. The bus pulled in to Munich at around 10:30pm, I made one call to Dylan, a Northwestern friend that I am meeting up with, and my phone politely told me that I have no more credit left to complete the call. Luckily after talking to a very nice German woman, hopping on a metro, then wading my way through a crowd on a road that could have only been named “Stripper Street,” Dylan and friends were just across the street from our hotel. The next morning we awoke at 6:45am, met up with more NU friends by 7:30, and were on Oktoberfest grounds by around 8:15. I'll skip over the part where we wait in a line outside the biggest tent for two hours only to be told that we couldn't get in and head right to the best part. Just as we sit in the outside seating area of the Hippodrom tent, the clouds departed and let the sun shine right down on Munich and our day. Beer isn't served on the first day until the mayor of Munich taps the first keg at noon, but when that happened, the entire place erupted. The waiters took beer orders before noon so that they could just run out to the tables, holding 20 steins at a time, each a liter of beer. We had two waiters, Paci and Simon, who were incredible, super friendly and very funny. Over the next five hours, the only feeling I had can be described as sheer ecstasy, that and the feeling of really needing to pee. It really just was a great day. I think that the experience was extra special because of the people with whom I was there. I really appreciate the new friends I've made on my program, we get along very well, but it's a different connection than that which I have with friends from school. Seeing good friends from school after three weeks away from everything and everyone familiar put a permanent smile on my face.

My bus left at 1pm on Sunday so like any responsible young adult, I went with my buds back to Oktoberfest for a couple more drinks. Again, had an amazing couple hours with friends old and new. It was a much different atmosphere than being outside, proven by the video I'm currently posting on Facebook. Inside the tent is much more of a true cultural experience, everyone chanting and yelling and chugging and chugging and did I mention they chug a lot. [Enter J. Lehmann]. By 11:30, I said my goodbyes and made my way to the bus depot.

Arriving back in Prague, after being in a very different city (I'll comment on the differences between Prague and Munich and Vienna when I write about my trip to Vienna), I felt a sort of “I'm home” sentiment. Maybe it was more of a “I know this place” feeling, which would be much more acceptable to Czechs. When speaking Czech, natives frown when newcomers say “Mám rád Prahu” (I hope google translate used the proper ending for Praha), which means “I love/really like Prague.” As someone who has only been here for a month and change, I have to say “Moc se mi líbí.” That phrase also means that I like it a lot but with different implications, I guess. Czechs are very prideful people and one must prove himself worthy before being able to say that he/she loves Prague. So even though I am not supposed to say that I love it here, I will say that I really really really like it, and that I appreciate Prague, and can't wait to find new things to appreciate about it.
Thanks for reading.
All the best,
Than