Recently I posted about my journey traveling on Tram 17. One thing I did not mention in that entry was my experience at the final stop in Sídliště Ďáblice. By that point, I had been on the tram for ninety minutes, had finished most of my water bottle, and really had to pee. Luckily, there was a urinal in Pivnice Na Konečné, the bar 20 meters from the tram stop, calling my name. I answered the call.
I walked in and immediately noticed everyone's eyes on me; it was as though I had worn a white suit to a funeral (not in the sense that I'm an ass for wearing white, but solely in the sticking out sense). Everyone in the bar was caucasian, as well, but I was the only one under 40 years old. My Czech language professor Jitka told us about provincial bars and how they operate. Those who live close by go to the same bar everyday at the same time, sit in the same seat, and most likely have a specific mug from which they drink. If an outsider were to come and sit, it would arouse negative sentiments from the other bar-goers. The bartender might say, “What are you doing?! Don't you know that that is Petr's seat and he will be here in 13 minutes?” Everything is incredibly territorial in these places, so I wasn't completely shocked when I saw that every single table had a reservation card on it. All of the times were just after what one might consider working hours, around 5 o'clock or so. The bar was populated by old men, all smoking cigarettes and drinking beer. One man actually looked straight out of a movie set; he was hard at work with a cigarette in one hand and a pen in the other with his beer waiting just in front of him. The men in the bar could have been in any film as Al Pacino's henchmen. They just gave very hard and cold looks.
Symbols of Czech pride covered the walls. There were AC and HC Sparta Praha flags and scarves hung up all over, Czech national flags, too, not to mention posters of famous Czech fairytales. I am so glad that I paid attention in Czech language class (at least up until that point) because it was only when I understood the waitresses questions and responded accordingly in their native language did the men stop staring at me. They may have been staring at me because of my boyishly good looks, but I also have a strong inkling that it was more the whole foreigner thing. This is kind of what I have noticed about Czechs: if you as someone new disrupt their schedules, they won't be happy, but they will be less unhappy if you at least attempt to speak Czech. This was when I realized that I am actually doing alright in terms of learning the language. I'm really glad that I have spent time learning the language here. I like knowing it. I almost feel like it's disrespectful to study in a country for four months and not learn, or try to learn, the language. I wish I had studied more languages in school because I want to know the language of every city to which I travel. I just think knowing languages is one of the coolest things.
Anyway, back to the bar. I was very excited to see that the bar sold my favorite beer, Gambrinus, for only 20Kc for .5L. For those unaccustomed to krowns, 20Kc is equivalent to $1.05US. It doesn't get much better than that, especially because this pint of Gambrinus was the smoothest, best tasting glass I've had in Prague. I don't know what it was about the beer, maybe because I was in an uncomfortable situation and the beer was a sense of comfort, therefore enabling me to better appreciate it, but it was delicious. They had the tube on a Czech sports network showing highlights from various professional floor hockey games. It was quite a bizarre sport to see on a professional stage. It reminded me of floor hockey in gym class except without goggles. The goalie had all sorts of pads but played with his bare hands. It was quite entertaining to watch and allowed me to pass the time in a more pleasant way than just staring at a wall for fear of catching the eyes of the men in the bar.
When I finished my beer, I paid the waitress, used the lavatory and then went on my way. I think I'm going to ride another tram's route completely, it's an incredible way to see the city. Going to these small-town bars gives great insight to the area and the people; it's definitely something I want to do one more time before I leave this city.
Thanks so much for reading. Later alligators.
All the best,
Than
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